Hauv cov txheej txheem nyuaj ntawm cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau, txhua yam khoom muaj nws lub luag haujlwm tshwj xeeb thiab ua haujlwm ua ke kom ua tiav qhov zoo tagnrho styling thiab xim.Glyceryl monothioglycolate(CAS 30618-84-9), ua ib qho tseem ceeb rau kev txo cov kua qaub, txawm hais tias tsis yog lub hauv paus tseem ceeb ntawm kev zas xim thiab pleev xim rau cov plaub hau ncaj qha, nws ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv cov txheej txheem zas xim rau cov plaub hau. Nws cov khoom siv tshuaj lom neeg tshwj xeeb muab kev txhawb nqa tseem ceeb rau kev txhim kho cov nyhuv zas xim rau cov plaub hau thiab txo cov plaub hau puas tsuaj.
I. Cov Yam Ntxwv ntawm Cheebtsam: Ib qho tshuaj txo qis me me hauv cov chaw acidic
Yuav kom nkag siab txog lub luag haujlwm ntawm glyceryl monothioglycolate hauv kev zas plaub hau, nws yog thawj qhov tsim nyog los piav qhia nws cov khoom siv tshuaj lom neeg tseem ceeb. Cov khoom no yog rau tsev neeg thiol compound. Pawg thiol (-SH) uas muaj nyob hauv nws cov qauv molecular muaj zog txo qis, thaum pawg glyceride muab nws nrog kev yaj dej zoo thiab kev sib raug zoo ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Piv nrog cov neeg sawv cev txo qis alkaline ib txwm muaj, qhov zoo dua ntawm glyceryl monothioglycolate nyob rau hauv nws cov pH tsis muaj zog acidic (feem ntau 3.0-4.0). Cov yam ntxwv no ua rau nws muaj peev xwm txo qis thaum tsis txhob muaj kev puas tsuaj ntau dhau rau cov plaub hau cuticles los ntawm cov khoom alkaline siab. Tso lub hauv paus ntawm "kev kho mob maj mam" rau cov txheej txheem zas plaub hau tom ntej.
Nyob rau hauv cov nqe lus ntawm kev ruaj khov,glyceryl monothioglycolatetsis yooj yim decompose hauv acidic systems thiab tuaj yeem tswj nws cov kev ua haujlwm txo qis rau lub sijhawm ntev. Qhov feature no ua rau nws tsim nyog rau kev ua haujlwm synergistic nrog cov pigment molecules, buffers thiab lwm yam khoom hauv cov plaub hau dyes los tsim cov plaub hau saib xyuas cov qauv ruaj khov. Lub caij no, nws cov qauv glyceride kuj tseem tuaj yeem tsim ib zaj duab xis tiv thaiv ntawm qhov chaw ntawm cov plaub hau, txo qhov kev puas tsuaj rau sab hauv keratin qauv ntawm cov plaub hau los ntawm kev kho mob tom qab, muab cov tshuaj kho mob zoo rau kev zas xim rau cov plaub hau puas tsuaj lossis cov plaub hau zoo thiab mos.
II. Lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv kev zas plaub hau: Qhib cov "channels" thiab txhim kho qhov ruaj khov ntawm cov xim
Lub ntsiab lus ntawm cov txheej txheem zas plaub hau yog kev nkag mus thiab kho cov xim molecules hauv cov plaub hau. Txawm li cas los xij, cov teeb meem ntuj ntawm cov plaub hau - cov cuticles thiab keratin qauv - ncaj qha tiv thaiv kev nkag mus ntawm cov xim molecules. Lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb ntawm glyceryl monomercaptoacetate yog rhuav tshem qhov teeb meem no los ntawm cov tshuaj tiv thaiv thiab "qhib cov channel" rau cov xim molecules.
1. Rhuav tshem cov disulfide bonds thiab ua kom cov plaub hau mos mos
Lub zog thiab elasticity ntawm cov plaub hau feem ntau nyob ntawm cov disulfide bonds (-SS-) ntawm cov keratin molecules. Cov thiol pawg (-SH) hauv Glyceryl monothioglycolate tuaj yeem ua rau muaj disulfide bonds, txo lawv mus rau ob pawg thiol (-SH + -SS- → -SS- + -SH), yog li ntawd txiav kev sib txuas ntawm keratin. Cov txheej txheem no ua rau cov qauv ntawm cov plaub hau mos thiab fluffy, cov cuticles maj mam qhib, thiab qhov chaw sab hauv ntawm cov plaub hau raug tso tawm, tsim cov xwm txheej rau kev nkag mus ntawm cov xim molecules hauv cov xim plaub hau.
Piv nrog rau cov kua qaub mercaptoacetic siv rau hauv cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau alkaline, qhov chaw ib puag ncig acidic ntawm glyceryl monothioglycolate tuaj yeem tswj tau qhov degree ntawm disulfide breakage, zam kev puas tsuaj ntau dhau uas ua rau cov plaub hau brittle thiab yooj yim tawg. Cov ntaub ntawv sim qhia tau tias nyob rau tib lub sijhawm ua tiav, thaum siv cov neeg sawv cev ua ntej kho uas muaj cov khoom no, qhov tawg ntawm disulfide bonds hauv cov plaub hau tuaj yeem tswj tau ntawm 30% -40%, uas tsis tsuas yog ua tau raws li qhov xav tau ntawm cov xim nkag mus tab sis kuj khaws cia ntau dua 70% ntawm lub zog kho tshuab ntawm cov plaub hau.
2. Txhim kho cov xim kom ruaj khov kom ntev lub sijhawm siv tau ntawm kev zas plaub hau
Thaum cov cuticles qhib thiab cov qauv plaub hau mos, cov molecules pigment hauv cov xim plaub hau (xws li cov intermediates ntawm oxidized dyes thiab cov molecule me me ntawm cov xim ncaj qha) tuaj yeem nkag mus rau hauv cov plaub hau cortex txheej du dua. Qhov chaw acidic tsis muaj zog ntawm glyceryl monothioglycolate kuj tseem tuaj yeem tswj hwm lub xeev them sab hauv ntawm cov plaub hau - cov plaub hau yuav nqa lub zog zoo nyob rau hauv cov xwm txheej acidic, tsim electrostatic attraction nrog cov molecules pigment tsis zoo, pab cov molecules pigment lo rau keratin thiab txo cov pigment poob thaum lub sijhawm ntxuav.
Hauv kev siv ua haujlwm, qhov ua tau ntev ntawm cov teebmeem zas plaub hau tuaj yeem nce ntxiv los ntawm 20% txog 30% tom qab kev kho mob nrog tus neeg sawv cev ua ntej kho mob uas muajglyceryl monothioglycolatePiv txwv li, lub sijhawm ploj xim ntawm cov xim plaub hau ib txwm muaj rau cov plaub hau mos mos yog kwv yees li 4 txog 6 lub lis piam. Txawm li cas los xij, tom qab kho nrog cov khoom xyaw no, lub sijhawm ploj xim tuaj yeem ntev mus txog 6 txog 8 lub lis piam, thiab cov xim saturation yuav sib xws dua, zam cov teeb meem xws li ploj ntawm cov plaub hau thiab qhov sib txawv ntau dhau ntawm cov xim tshiab ntawm cov hauv paus plaub hau.
III. Cov Xwm Txheej Siv Tau: Feem ntau tsom mus rau hauv cov txheej txheem "ironing thiab dyeing"
Txawm hais tias glyceryl monothioglycolate tuaj yeem pab tau rau kev zas plaub hau, nws tsis yog ntxiv ncaj qha rau hauv cov xim plaub hau tab sis feem ntau pom muaj nyob rau hauv cov neeg sawv cev perming (tshwj xeeb tshaj yog cov khoom acidic perming) lossis cov neeg sawv cev ua ntej plaub hau, tsim kev sib xyaw ua ke "synergistic" nrog cov txheej txheem zas plaub hau. Cov xwm txheej siv feem ntau suav nrog ob pawg hauv qab no:
1. Ib txoj kev npaj tiv thaiv "perm ua ntej, tom qab ntawd zas xim" rau cov plaub hau puas lawm
Rau cov plaub hau puas tsuaj los ntawm kev perming thiab dyeing ntau zaus, cov txheej txheem ib txwm ntawm "perming ua ntej thiab tom qab ntawd dyeing" feem ntau ua rau cov plaub hau poob nws qhov elasticity tag nrho vim yog ob npaug ntawm cov tshuaj lom neeg puas tsuaj. Thaum lub sijhawm no, cov tshuaj perming acidic uas muaj glyceryl monothioglycolate ua qhov tseem ceeb: nws qhov chaw acidic tsis muaj zog tuaj yeem txo qhov kev puas tsuaj rau cov cuticles thaum lub sijhawm perming, thaum maj mam rhuav tshem cov disulfide bonds, cia cov plaub hau tsim cov qauv curly thaum tswj hwm qee qib ntawm kev tawv. Thaum dyeing plaub hau tom qab, cov cuticles qhib tso cai rau cov xim molecules nkag mus sai, tshem tawm qhov xav tau ntxiv cov xim plaub hau alkaline siab thiab yog li txo qhov kev pheej hmoo ntawm kev puas tsuaj ob npaug.
2. Kev kho ua ntej "Xim kom zoo dua" rau cov plaub hau mos thiab zoo nkauj
Qhov keratin ntom ntawm cov plaub hau mos mos yog qhov tsawg heev, thiab cov qauv ntawm cov cuticles yog nyias. Thaum ncaj qha dyed, cov molecules pigment feem ntau lo rau ntawm qhov chaw thiab nyuaj rau nkag mus rau hauv txheej cortex, ua rau muaj xim pom tseeb thiab yooj yim xim ploj mus. Ntawm lub sijhawm no, koj tuaj yeem siv tus neeg sawv cev ua ntej kho mob uas muaj glyceryl monothioglycolate rau koj cov plaub hau: nws cov nyhuv txo qis tuaj yeem ua rau me ntsis tawg cov disulfide bonds hauv cov plaub hau mos mos, ua rau cov qauv plaub hau "xoob", thiab tib lub sijhawm, zaj duab xis tiv thaiv tsim los ntawm glyceryl ester pawg ntawm cov plaub hau nto tuaj yeem tiv thaiv kev poob ntau dhau ntawm cov molecules pigment. Tom qab kev kho mob ua ntej ua ntej dyeing plaub hau, cov molecules pigment tuaj yeem faib ntau dua hauv txheej cortex, ua rau muaj xim pom tseeb dua, thiab nws kuj tseem tuaj yeem txo qhov khaus ntawm ammonia, hydrogen peroxide thiab lwm yam khoom hauv cov plaub hau zas xim rau cov plaub hau mos mos.
IV. Kev Ceev Faj Rau Kev Siv: Kev ua xua thiab kev sib koom ua ke ntawm cov mis yog qhov tseem ceeb
Txawm hais tias glyceryl monothioglycolate muaj cov txiaj ntsig zoo hauv kev pab zas plaub hau, vim nws cov khoom siv tshuaj lom neeg, kev nyab xeeb thiab kev tsim nyog ntawm cov mis yuav tsum tau saib xyuas nruj me ntsis thaum siv kom tsis txhob muaj kev pheej hmoo.
1. Tej zaum yuav ua rau ua xua: Yuav tsum tau kuaj daim tawv nqaij
Glyceryl monothioglycolate yog ib hom tshuaj thiol thiab yog ib qho ntawm cov tshuaj ua xua uas feem ntau pom hauv cov khoom siv tu plaub hau. Txawm hais tias nws yog kev raug tshuaj ntev ntev los ntawm cov kws kho plaub hau (xws li kev sib cuag ntawm daim tawv nqaij tes nrog cov khoom) lossis cov neeg siv khoom siv cov khoom perming / dyeing uas muaj cov khoom xyaw no, nws yuav ua rau muaj kab mob dermatitis - cov tsos mob tau pom tias yog liab, khaus, thiab kub hnyiab ntawm lub taub hau. Hauv cov xwm txheej hnyav, cov pob khaus, tev tawv nqaij yuav tshwm sim, thiab txawm tias kis mus rau thaj chaw sib cuag xws li lub ntsej muag thiab caj dab.
Glyceryl monothioglycolateQhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws uas yuav tsum nco ntsoov yog tias cov khoom no yuav nyob hauv cov plaub hau tom qab perming lossis dyeing txog li peb lub hlis. Txawm tias tsis muaj qhov tsis xis nyob thaum siv thawj zaug, cov khoom seem yuav txuas ntxiv mus kov lub taub hau thaum lub sijhawm ntxuav plaub hau thiab txhuam plaub hau tom qab, ua rau muaj kev tsis haum tshuaj qeeb. Yog li ntawd, txhua yam khoom saib xyuas plaub hau uas muaj cov khoom no yuav tsum tau kuaj tawv nqaij 48 teev tom qab pob ntseg lossis sab hauv ntawm caj npab ua ntej siv. Tsuas yog tom qab paub tseeb tias tsis muaj kev tsis haum tshuaj xws li liab, o, lossis khaus lawv thiaj li siv tau rau ntawm lub taub hau.
2. Kev vam khom ntawm cov mis: Tsis tuaj yeem siv ib leeg xwb
Qhov cuam tshuam ntawm Glyceryl monothioglycolate yog nyob ntawm seb cov mis tshuaj sib xyaw ua ke li cas thiab siv tsis tau rau kev saib xyuas plaub hau xwb. Ib sab tes, nws yuav tsum tau ua ke nrog cov buffers (xws li citric acid thiab sodium dihydrogen phosphate) kom tswj tau qhov chaw nyob ruaj khov uas tsis muaj zog acidic. Yog tias cov mis tshuaj tsis muaj buffers, nws tus nqi pH yuav nce ntxiv nrog lub sijhawm khaws cia, tsis yog tsuas yog poob nws qhov mos xwb tab sis kuj ua rau txo qis kev ua haujlwm. Ib sab tes, nws yuav tsum tau ua ke nrog cov neeg sawv cev chelating (xws li disodium EDTA) kom tiv thaiv cov calcium thiab magnesium ions hauv dej kom tsis txhob cuam tshuam nrog cov khoom thiab cuam tshuam rau kev ruaj khov.
Ntxiv mus, cov khoom xyaw no muaj cov tshuaj tsis sib xws nrog cov khoom alkaline heev, xws li cov xim plaub hau uas muaj ammonia ntau tshaj 3%. Yog tias nws sib xyaw ncaj qha nrog cov xim plaub hau alkaline heev, qhov chaw ib puag ncig uas muaj acidity tsawg yuav raug cuam tshuam. Nws tsis yog tsuas yog tsis pab txhawb kev txhim kho xim xwb, tab sis nws kuj tseem yuav tsim cov pa roj uas ua rau khaus, ua rau cov plaub hau puas tsuaj thiab khaus tawv taub hau. Yog li ntawd, cov neeg sawv cev perming plaub hau lossis cov neeg sawv cev ua ntej kho uas muaj cov khoom no yuav tsum tau siv hloov pauv nrog cov xim plaub hau (feem ntau pom zoo kom zas plaub hau 24 txog 48 teev tom qab perming), thiab yuav tsum tsis txhob sib cuag ncaj qha.
3. Kev kho cov khoom seem: Yuav tsum tau ntxuav kom huv si tom qab ironing thiab dyeing
Vim tias glyceryl monothioglycolate yuav nyob hauv cov plaub hau ntev heev, tom qab ua tiav cov txheej txheem perming thiab dyeing, nws yog ib qho tsim nyog los ntxuav cov plaub hau kom huv si nrog cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau nruab nrab kom tshem tawm cov khoom seem. Thaum ntxuav, nws raug pom zoo kom siv dej sov (kwv yees li 37 ℃) kom tsis txhob ua rau lub taub hau khaus nrog dej kub dhau. Tib lub sijhawm, koj tuaj yeem siv cov tshuaj pleev plaub hau uas muaj panthenol thiab ceramide los kho cov cuticles puas tsuaj thiab txo qhov cuam tshuam tas mus li ntawm cov khoom seem rau cov plaub hau.
V. Xaus Lus: Qhov "Tsis Muaj Peev Xwm Hloov Tau" ntawm Cov Luag Haujlwm Txhawb Nqa
Txawm hais tiasGlyceryl Monothioglycolate CAS 30618-84-9Tsis yog cov khoom tseem ceeb rau kev zas plaub hau thiab pleev xim, nws tau dhau los ua ib qho tseem ceeb "kev pabcuam mos mos" hauv cov txheej txheem zas plaub hau vim nws cov khoom ua kom cov kua qaub tsawg. Glyceryl monothioglycolate muab kev daws teeb meem zoo dua thiab muaj txiaj ntsig zoo dua rau kev perming thiab zas plaub hau puas thiab cov plaub hau mos los ntawm kev qhib cov cuticles thiab ua kom cov xim zoo dua. Tib lub sijhawm, nws kuj tso lub hauv paus rau kev txhim kho qhov ruaj khov thiab cov xim pom ntawm kev zas plaub hau.
Txawm li cas los xij, nws qhov ua rau ua xua thiab kev vam khom cov mis kuj ceeb toom peb tias kev siv cov khoom saib xyuas plaub hau yuav tsum xav txog ob qho tib si kev ua haujlwm zoo thiab kev nyab xeeb. Txawm tias cov neeg siv khoom lossis cov kws txiav plaub hau, lawv yuav tsum nkag siab tag nrho cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov khoom xyaw thiab ua raws li cov qauv siv xws li kev kuaj tawv nqaij, kev sib koom ua ke ntawm cov mis, thiab kev ntxuav kom huv si, kom "cov khoom xyaw pabcuam" no tuaj yeem ua lub luag haujlwm thaum txo qis kev pheej hmoo kev noj qab haus huv kom ntau tshaj plaws. Yav tom ntej, nrog rau kev txhim kho cov thev naus laus zis tshuaj pleev plaub hau, cov mis ntawm glyceryl monothioglycolate yuav raug kho kom zoo dua. Piv txwv li, los ntawm kev sib xyaw nws nrog cov nroj tsuag extracts (xws li tshuaj yej ntsuab extract thiab chamomile extract), nws cov teebmeem pabcuam tuaj yeem khaws cia thaum txo qis kev ua xua, muab cov kev daws teeb meem nyab xeeb dua thiab mos dua rau thaj chaw zas plaub hau.
Lub sijhawm tshaj tawm: Lub Kaum Ob Hlis-18-2025